How do I look after my newly planted trees?

How do I look after my newly Planted trees?

Establishing larger trees (larger in this case means anything bigger than trees bought in a garden centre) can require more care and so we advise that you follow these simple rules for the first year or two in order your tree gets the best start to it’s life in your garden.

Watering

By far the most important thing to do with your tree is to ensure that the full depth of roots do not dry out in the first couple of seasons after planting. All trees are different, but as a general rule, you will typically need 30 to 50 litres of water per square metre which equates to around 4 to 6 normal sized watering cans each week during times of dry weather. Trees which are already established will not need watering, with the exception of a severe drought.

Use a watering can with a rose attachment or a fine sprinkler as these will release water slowly and with less pressure, in the same way rain will fall on the plant. This prevents soil from washing away.
Water around the tree evenly across the whole root ball.
Trees that we have planted will be watered in when they are planted but you should continue with the watering regime as and when necessary from the time buds appear to the time the leaves have fallen (that is for deciduous trees).
Watering is advised as above for the first couple of growing seasons after being planted.
Evergreen trees do need some water during winter, especially if it is a particularly dry winter. Do this as and when rather than a constant regime.
Check any irrigation systems regularly to ensure that they are still working.
Keep in your head that just because it is raining, the trees are not necessarily getting the correct amount of water that they need. Rain sometimes runs off and does not get to the roots or other tree canopies prevents it getting to the place where it is needed; the root ball.
Make sure any water that your are applying is soaking into the soil after ten or so minutes.

Feeding

No feeding is necessary in the first growing season after being planted. This is to try and encourage the tree’s roots to develop out into the existing soil in order for the plant to search for it’s own nutrients and water. If the existing surrounding soil is not particularly fertile then feeding the year after will help the root growth. Feed should be applied at around 70g per square metre (or 2oz per square yard) and be applied in spring.

Weeding

In the first five years after planting, it is important that you keep an eye on any weeds which may grow around the base of the tree. Weeds fight for nutrients, light and water with the newly planted tree so keep this in check.

Established trees do not suffer in the same way as the roots are deeper and wider and not competing as much with other plants.

Mulching

You may or may not have agreed for mulching to be included in your landscaping package. Whether you have or not, trees do be benefit from this to prevent weeds, aid with keeping moisture in the soil, add nutrients to the soil and support the growth of mycorrhizal fungi.

If you are thinking of mulching then apply your mulch in late winter, after any fertiliser has been applied. This will keep moisture in the soil before the start of the growing season in spring into summer.

Apply bark mulch, well-rotted manure or leafmould to a depth of around 7 or 8cm after clearing any existing weeds over an area of 50-75cm diameter around the tree. Keep the mulch directly from touching the tree as this will prevent any rotting of the trunk.

Tree guards

During times of high wind, any tree guards that have been fitted may have become displaced or removed completely. Replace and adjust as necessary and remove any grass growing inside them at the same time.

Adjusting ties and removing stakes

Examine any tree ties in early spring and again in early autumn and adjust the ties as necessary. Tighten if loose and loosen if the ties are constricting the growth of the trunk.

The ties and stakes should have done their job at the end of two following growing seasons and should be able to be removed.

Problems with tree establishment

Not enough water.

If a younger tree is not getting enough water it will not develop properly. If you think the tree is not getting enough water, dig into the ground with a large screw driver to see if the soil below is damp. If it’s dry then water is not penetrating to the full root ball.

Too much water.

Too much water is just as bad as not enough water for a tree. The symptoms can look very similar to under watering too which does not help.

Some of the tress may become yellow on lower branches or near to the trunk. Green leaves can become brittle.

Tree stress.

Trees can get stressed when they are transported and planted so keep your eye on them on the weeks and months afterwards as the symptoms often develop slowly.

Keep your eyes open for:

Appearance of abnormally small leaves.
Leaves are discoursed with pale green.
Unusually slow growth.
Development of autumn leaf colour before autumn.
Twig and branch die back.
Leaves that are wilting.
New growth that is very tender.
Bark that peels.
Fungi starting to grow from the bark and stems.

Pests.

Most trees are quite capable of withstanding a certain amount of attack by insects. The issue comes when insect populations become very high. These are generally only noticed once the insects have moved on so it’s important you keep your eyes on your trees, especially during spring and early summer. Check bark, stems and leaves for anything that is abnormal about the tree.

Treat any infections as you find them, ideally with none chemical solutions.

Fertiliser

Continue mowing, increasing frequency as necessary and lower the height of the cut closer to the level you would have in summer. The lawn should now be fed with lawn fertilizer and treated with a lawn weed killer or use an all in one weed and feed product. The soil is usually moist now but if there is a prolonged dry spell, water before the lawn shows signs of distress.

Pruning

Hold off any pruning for at least a year. Trimming branches mid-season can limit any growth potential for the following growing season.