How do I look after my newly turfed lawn?

To ensure that your new lawn starts its life in the best possible way, here are a few points to help it on its way. In theory, lawns are best laid in autumn or spring, but this is seldom possible due us building gardens year round. Laying turf on red hot days will be avoided as the turf will dry up and die.

Once the lawn is established follow the annual lawn care notes at the bottom of this page.

Keep off the grass!

The chances are that the first two to three weeks after your turf has been laid is going to be the most important part of its life and for that reason it is worth spending a little time with it to ensure it gets the best possible start.

Do not be tempted to walk on it. Each time you step on it you will find that depressions will appear which will live with the lawn for the rest of its life. If you really have to have access across the lawn, place planks down first. Also, if you have pets, keep them off it too.

Water

Water daily for 2-3 weeks then as necessary, dependent on weather conditions. It is really important to ensure that the turf does not dry out. When the turf is growing before lifting, it has plenty of roots pushing deep into the soil which will find moisture. Many of these are severed when lifting to you will need to artificially supply water to the shallower roots so they can establish and become longer.

In order to ensure that enough water is supplied to the lawn, a hosepipe is a necessity, unless the lawn is tiny. On the first day, give the lawn a really good, even soaking. On days after this, it will require less, but still needs to be soaked. In warmer periods, water at the coolest times of the day: early morning or evening, this way, less water is lost through evaporation and the grass will not be burnt in summer sun. At cooler times this is less critical and water can be applied whenever is easiest for you.

Mowing

Leave any mowing of the lawn until the grass reaches approximately 7cm tall. The general rule of thumb is to generally cut no more than a third of the grass blade. Do not cut the grass less than 2.5 cm. In order to get the lawn you are aiming for, you need to gradually lower the height of the blades, but generally continuing to use the above rules of thumb.

New lawns are best cut with a rotary mower which needs to be sharp in order to make sure the new turf is not pulled up. It is best to use a grass collector, but if you don't have one, make sure you lightly rake up all the clippings and remove to compost etc.

Monthly Lawn Care

January

Brush away fallen leaves. Try to keep off the grass when frosty or particularly wet as this can harm your lawn. Time to get your mower serviced.

February

Spring cleaning. Rake up dead undergrowth with a spring-tined rake and scatter any worm casts with a besom when they are dry. Do not mow before March.

March

After the frost and the weather is favourable rake to remove leaves and surface detritus. Don’t rake too vigorously or you may damage the grass. If there have been heavy frosts over winter, settle the turf by lightly rolling when the surface is dry (You could use a cylinder mower with the blade held high. As soon as the ground and weather are suitable, 'top' the grass with the mower blades set high. Two cuts are sufficient this month. If the ground is hard and bare patches are present, spike the surface to about 4 inches with a garden fork. Rock the garden fork to and fro and repeat every 15-25cm. Brush in a mixture of sand and Bio Humus. Look for early signs of disease and apply a moss killer if necessary.

April

Mow as often as necessary to keep the grass neat and trim. The grass should not be cut closer than1.8cm from the ground. Irregular close mowing will ruin your lawn. Rake the lawn to keep the grass healthy, to remove dead moss and to help to control clover. Feed with a proprietary spring lawn fertiliser and apply as per the manufacturer’s instructions towards the end of the month.

May

Continue mowing, increasing frequency as necessary and lower the height of the cut closer to the level you would have in summer. The lawn should now be fed with lawn fertilizer and treated with a lawn weed killer or use an all in one weed and feed product. The soil is usually moist now but if there is a prolonged dry spell, water before the lawn shows signs of distress.

June

If the weather is very dry, mow less often and leave off the grass box. If you decide to water then really soak it. For isolated deep-rooted weeds, spot treat with weed killer.

July

Mow as necessary. If persistent weeds are present, treat the area with weed & feed or lawn sand. Water over any prolonged dry periods. Think about holidays and making arrangements for getting the lawn cut whilst you maybe away.

August

Mow as necessary and treat as per July notes. August is the last month of the year to be using nitrogen-rich fertilizer or weed killers.

September

Carry on mowing as often as necessary with the interval between increasing and the and progressively raising the cut height. Scarify then spike any compacted areas and top dress. Apply lawn sand for clover control. If hollows or bumps are found, gently cut and roll back the turf, add or remove soil as necessary and then replace grass. Reseed any bare patches on the lawn with general purpose top soil and seed.

October

Getting ready for winter. Continue mowing as long as the weather remains favourable. Aerate the soil by spiking (see March notes). Brush or rake in a dressing of bone meal & sand. Lightly mow newly sown or newly laid grass, if weather is fine.

November

Mow once with the blades set high if the weather is not frosty or wet. Brush away any worm casts and brush up leaves and put them on the compost heap.

December

Mow once if weather remains favourable (neither frosty nor very wet). Brush up fallen leaves. Keep off the grass if it is wet or frozen.